Kimono Care


Never store your kimono on a clothes hanger. The hanger shape would, in time, dirstort the typical, angular shape of the garment. Neatly fold the kimono, making use of the straight lines it is made up of (but not along the centre back), and wrap it in paper, possibly also cloth, if it's a valuable piece. Moth repellent and poison should not be brought into direct contact with the fabric.


Original kimono fabrics, with the exception of yukata, are usually made of overly twisted yarn that tends to shrink if left in water for too long. Moreover, they bleed easily - yukata indigo, too -, so they should be hand washed in luke warm water. Don't leave it in the water and rub only very lightly. To dry, don't wring it but put a long stick through both sleeves and hang it up by the stick. Even safer and easier to dry is the traditional method of taking it apart for washing and leavig the parts to dry as single oblongs.

If your kimono is an original piece of the more formal, decorated kind, with gold and silver thread and foil, silk embroidery and/or a painted pattern, washing the piece would be deadly. Stand on clean ground when putting it on, be very careful when wearing it and check for stains immediately after wearing. Light sweat stains can (hopefully) be removed by lightly wetting the spot, maybe with a bit of vinegar in the water, then patting it between two layers of wet cloth, but not more. Pat the fabric dry with tissue or dry cloth afterwards. More serious stains require a treatment by kimono experts, not a normal laundry shop. If the stain seriously spoils the looks, you can of course try anything you want, for if it doesn't help, you'll have to throw the kimono away anyway. If I were you I'd prefer to consider using the un-stained portions of fabric for other garments.



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